Send Us a Picture: Journey to the Balkans

In the spring of 2000, Jeff Feigin, then a recent graduate of WPI, was staying at the International House while here to confer with his advisors regarding the research work that he was doing in Macedonia. Since then in recent weeks Macedonia, the republic, made up of Slavs and Albanians, has begun unraveling. Like many front-line states to close to crisis, Macedonia is suffering from the spill-over effects of the recent war in Kosovo, which is now an armed camp under NATO's command. Below are excerpts from a conversation with Jeff Feigin at the International House.

I: Where is Macedonia?

JF: It is in eastern Europe, surrounded by Albania, Greece, Bulgaria and the former Yugoslavia.

I: Where do you live in Macedonia?

JF: In Skopje [the capital city]. It's about a half million people....looks roughly like Worcester.

I How long have you been there?

JF: Two months.

I: What are you doing in Macedonia?

JF: I am doing independent research work, and I am still affiliated with the research lab at WPI, working at computer projects.

I: What kinds of resources are there in Macedonia? What kind of economy is there?

JF: Outside the city, there is some agriculture, farming--cattle and dairy: basic things that come from a farm, they import a lot of agricultural products from Greece, such as olives. Probably one of the most unique things about Macedonia, about the food, is the variety of feta cheeses available. You wouldn't know that there were 15 to 20 varieties of feta cheese. That's what they sell in the markets. [Along with] Meats and yogurts. The yogurt they have there is actually drinkable; it's very different from the yogurt they have here.

I: What about the geography and terrain?

JF: It's very mountainous. In fact, every town is surrounded by mountains. A town is placed just where you can place a town in the mountains; the mountains are very high. That's probably the reason they've been pretty untouched for a very long time, except for couple of armies. The mountains are tremendous surrounding the city of Skopje.

I: Was Alexander the Great from that side of Macedonia?

JF: That's a question that's still up to a lot of debate. The original Macedonia extended into Serbia, Greece and Bulgaria. Where Alexander the Great came from, nobody knows. Just Macedonia. This can actually get you into an argument.

I: Is there a river?

JF: In the city of Skopje itself, there's a river going through Skopje, the Vardar River. There's another river, the Drini River that goes from Macedonia through Albania. And then there is a major lake, Lake Ohrid, which is on the border with Albania.

I: What kind of economic activity happens in and around the lake.

JF: There are a couple of neat things that happen. One is a type of pearl they make from fish scales. Family businesses make them. Another aspect is the fishing industry, which is very regulated, but it produces the lake salmon. I can't figure out if it is trout or salmon but it is very good fresh water fish. The lake is tremendously clear, very beautiful. It's 20 or more kilometers across; you can't see the other side. People come from all over eastern Europe--at least from Yugoslavia--to visit. There is such a perception of war in this area (which is just not true) that people are afraid to go there.

I: Aside from this, is there any other kind of industry in Macedonia?

JF: Some. I guess there is some kind of metals, not so much; it is still a poor country. Some textiles; some related to food. Small industries.

I: What's the population?

JF: 2 million--not a huge country.

I: What is the focus of your work?

JF: Indoor wireless networking.

I: What caused you to choose this country--if it's not too personal?

JF: It's personal. It's one of those compromises you make when you are in a relationship. Sometimes you know, it's about what both people need. I am willing to take a vacation. I just finished a masters here at WPI. And I really need the break. It's a very unique experience being with a native of this country because I hang out with Macedonians. I drink beer with Macedonians. I go to Macedonian homes for dinner. I kind of have an ear on the culture. I take part in things you wouldn't take part in if you just showed up there.

I: What about the language? Is it the same as the language spoken in Greek Macedonia?

JF: Not at all. It's a Slavic language, similar to the language spoken in Yugoslavia or Bulgaria, but not Greek.

I: How would you describe the national character of the people?

JF: That's a tough one. There's a strong sense of nationalism. There is a feeling that the country is poorer than it should be. Sometimes there's a lot of self-pity and self-criticism. They watch a lot of American TV. Almost all their TV is American movies.

They have a funny idea about themselves, about [how life in] America is and how life should be. A lot of people like a very popular TV program, "Beverly Hills 90210." People don't quite realize this is not how Americans live. It's just TV. Even though they realize this [is just TV], they don't really understand.

I: What is your day there like? Is every day different or do you have a set routine?

JF: I am not a set-routine kind of person. I usually spend a couple hours doing some kind of work: Programming computers, simulation. We go to the market there at least every other day: These are huge open-air markets, similar to flea markets, not a supermarket. The food--there are really no preservatives--you buy your food every other day, pretty much: very fresh vegetables, meats.... I go shopping. It's not a place to go shopping for interesting things. You shop to buy things that a part of your daily life. But it's very interesting for me. After a whole day of shopping I might only spend $5 or $10. Things are incredibly cheap. You have to be careful because what you pay for is what you get when you buy house wares or tools.

I: Is there a national minimum wage?

JF: I would not know. There are some laws...some people think they are stifling. You cannot really get a part-time job. Because of the socialize...the socialism, an employer has to pay for your health benefits and retirement benefits. And it can become very expensive to employ. There is a lot of unemployment. About 20 per cent or more of the country is unemployed.

I: Are women a big part of the job market?

JF: Yes. Women definitely are being employed. I would feel this is not a very chauvinistic society at all. Although one thing that I saw is in the newspapers when they advertise a job, for example, for an electrical engineer, they will specify "male," nothing you'd do in the US. Or a lot of times, they will say, "Send us a picture," so you know what they are doing.